Desi Handmade clothing is produced through a multi-stage, human-led textile and garment-making process carried out in collaboration with Charaka, including its production units such as Shramajeevi Ashrama.
The process begins with mill-procured yarn and moves through scouring, natural dyeing, handloom weaving, fabric finishing, and garment construction. Each stage is performed using manual skills, low-intervention techniques, and controlled batch production.
This page documents the actual sequence of operations used to convert raw yarn into finished garments, explaining what handmade means in operational terms rather than as a descriptive label.
What happens to the yarn before weaving begins?
Before weaving, yarn undergoes scouring, an essential preparation step.
Scouring involves:
- Removing industrial oil, wax, dust, and residues from mill-supplied yarn
- Improving dye absorption
- Reducing uncontrolled shrinkage during weaving
The process includes:
- Counting and bundling yarn
- Immersion in a scouring bath using pre-heated solar water
- Heat generated through firewood and areca nut shells
- Continuous boiling circulation for approximately six hours
- Overnight resting followed by thorough washing
After scouring, white yarn is dried for weaving, while other yarns move to dyeing.
How is natural dyeing carried out at Shramajeevi Ashrama?
Natural dyeing is conducted using plant-, mineral-, and waste-derived dye sources, without harmful chemicals.
Dyes used include:
- Eucalyptus (grey, light yellow)
- Indigo cake (blue)
- Areca nut (brown)
- Iron rust with sour jaggery (black)
- Pomegranate peel (yellow, green)
- Indian madder root (pink)
- Reused dye liquids (golden tones)
Natural alum is used as a mordant to improve colour fastness.
What dyeing methods are used, and how do they differ?
Three dyeing methods are practiced, depending on colour and material requirements.
Cold Process
- Used for black and blue shades
- Yarn is soaked briefly, squeezed, and shade-dried
Vat Process (Traditional Indigo Dyeing)
- Raw materials fermented in earthen pots buried underground
- Mixtures mature for at least 15 days
- Sheep dung used for temperature regulation
- Yarn dipped repeatedly to deepen colour
- Supports revival of traditional indigo practices
Hot / Heat Process
- Used for yellow, pink, green, brown, grey, and golden tones
- Yarn is mordanted and dyed at approximately 80°C
- Ensures stable and even colouring
Soft local water is used and safely reused for irrigation after dyeing.
How are dyed yarns prepared for weaving?
After dyeing:
- Yarn is shade-dried to preserve colour
- Stored in a yarn stock room
- Dispatched for bobbin winding or weaving as required
This stage ensures yarn stability and readiness for loom work.
What role does bobbin preparation and warping play?
Bobbin Preparation
- Yarn is wound into bobbins using spinning wheels
- Separate bobbins are prepared for warp and weft
Warping
- Bobbins are arranged onto warp beams
- Vertical fabric structure is established
- Fabric patterns are determined at this stage
These steps define the structural foundation of the fabric.
How is fabric woven on handlooms?
Handloom weaving involves:
- Interlacing warp and weft yarns at right angles
- Manual control of pace and tension by the weaver
- Human judgement shaping texture and character
This stage determines the fabric’s tactile and visual qualities.
How is fabric inspected and stabilised after weaving?
After weaving:
- Fabric length and width are measured
- Embroidery (if present) is checked
- Quality inspections are conducted
For shrinkage control:
- Fabrics are soaked thoroughly
- Left overnight
- Dried naturally
This allows controlled shrinkage before garment construction.
What finishing steps prepare fabric for garment making?
Post-shrinkage:
- Fabrics are ironed
- Stretched back to original measurements
- Prepared for cutting
This ensures dimensional stability and accuracy during stitching.
How are garments constructed after weaving?
Fabric moves to Charaka’s main campus for garment production.
Steps include:
- Cutting — fabric measured and cut by size and design
- Stitching — cut pieces assembled into garments
- Quality checking — measurements and construction verified
- Final ironing — garments prepared for distribution
How are finished products distributed?
Finished products include:
- Garments
- Sarees
- Stoles
- Towels
- Quilts
- Accessories
These are distributed through Desi stores and platforms such as Desi Handmade.
Why does this production process matter?
This process:
- Keeps craft skills central to production
- Avoids industrial shortcuts
- Respects natural materials and dye methods
- Maintains continuity of traditional textile knowledge
Charaka’s practice-led approach emphasises sustainability, simplicity, affordability, and long-term livelihood continuity.
Verification & Freshness
Data and programme information on this page was last reviewed and verified by Desi Handmade in June 2026.